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LA DAVOLA
Many of you
may remember the lovely building that the Clockhouse was located in.
Well the outside remains as lovely as it was, but the interior has
been transformed into a sophisticated, yet welcoming eatery.
The owner,
Jose Luis, hails from the Basque country in Spain and has brought
the flavour of his home region to Fuerteventura. It is such a
refreshing change to see such a variety of mouthwatering dishes on a
menu instead of the usual steak, fish and pasta.
The starters
are around 8.50e, apart from the Iberian ham which will set you back
12.50e. I was dining with Penny Melville and we decided to share a
starter of asparagus with ventresca and red peppers in a chive
vinaigrette.

Ventresca
is like the fillet part of the tuna and barely needs cooking as it
is so tender and succulent. It married beautifully with the
asparagus and red peppers. We washed this down with a local Basque
wine, txakoli (this must have its origins in the greek language!) a
rich but dry white wine and very reasonably priced.
Penny, who
perhaps I ought to rename the fishwife! - opted for hake, Basque
style for her main course.

This turned out to be with scallops in a buttery
rich sauce, that disappeared with amazing rapidity! Being allergic
to shellfish I couldn't try it, but her empty plate spoke for
itself.
I went for the cod with mint pil-pil, which looked
attractive but a little disappointing when I received it.

However, the cod was cooked perfectly and the
sauce was creamy with a delicate hint of mint - which didn't
overpower the fish at all. The dish was actually so rich that I can
see why the portions aren't huge.
Amongst the other main courses are some
delectable options such as sirloin of veal with foie and orange
caramel and duck foie roasted with carrot marmalade. As you can
probably tell from this, political correctness is not on the menu!
There are also no vegetarian main courses and only a couple of
starters with no meat or fish. main courses are around 14e.
In spite of the richness of the main
course, I managed to fit in a dessert. I really miss good cheesecake
and here they do one with cranberries, one of my favourite fruits.

Although the base was sponge rather than
the biscuit I am used to, it was yummy. the sweetness of the cheese
perfectly offset by the acidity of the cranberries.
The service was attentive when we first
arrived, but slacked off during the meal. For example, at these
prices, I expect my wine to be poured for me! However, I talked to
Jose Luis about this at the end of the meal and he said that he is
training his locally hired staff to cater for a more upmarket
customer, so this should improve.
In addition to the downstairs and
terrace areas of this restaurant, there is a spacious upstairs
dining room that can be reserved for special occasions. The night we
were there, a party was enjoying this facility with gusto.

It is nice to see some more exclusive
restaurants opening on the island, my concern is that the British
preoccupation with quantity and lots of veg with their main courses
will result in disappointment. However, if you are more adventurous
this restaurant is well worth a visit as I have found nothing else
like it on my gastronomic travels so far.
La Davola can be found at 21 Calle
Iglesia - almost opposite Blue Rock. The phone number is 928 537
297.
Corinne Sellens |