DEN OF JENIQUITY ARCHIVE

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La Telegraphe

La Telegraphe is located where the old Meson Eve was on the cobbled street. Those of you who read my reviews regularly will know that generally I am positive because I don't think there is any such thing as a perfect restaurant, just ones that suit some people more than others. However, this time I must say I was disappointed.

When we arrived there was a live musician singing outside. Having just passed through the fairly lively music square, I could probably have done without this, but there was a table of diners who were enjoying it.

The restaurant is tastefully decorated and reminiscent of an old Spanish bodega and it was good to see the waiters decked out in smart uniforms.

The cuisine is a mixture of French and International dishes with some interesting combinations such as prawns in whisky. I tried the fish and wild mushroom croquettes as I adore both ingredients. However when they came they were dry and I couldn't really taste the lovely smokiness that I've found eating these mushrooms elsewhere.

My dining companion Jeanne Quigley has just returned from doing a tour of Ireland writing for a food magazine there. She tried the fish suffed peppers which came beautifully presented.

I tried them and thought they were really tasty, however her comment was that they were a bit too much of the same, as both the sauce and the peppers were sweet. She would have preferred a bit more of a contrast.

As I am allergic to shellfish - luckily just those with two shells, I was careful to ask the waiter if there were any mariscos in either of the dishes. I was assured there wasn't but about an hour after finishing the meal, I suddenly got the headache and sweating that I know is the start of me having to spend an inordinately long time in the toilet! Jeanne tried both dishes and was fine so I know it was not food poisoning. I just wish that people would be more careful about advising their customers accurately. For me, my alergy is an inconvenience but others can have very serious reactions to some foods such as nuts.

Anyway on to the main courses. I had a Tournedos Rossini which was well cooked and extremely tasty.

I like vegetables so the side dish of beans and peppers was very welcome. The baked potatoes were lovely, drenched in a garlic butter. I did think the rice was a bit of an overkill though.

Jeanne however was not so lucky. As they advertise themselves as  a French restaurant, she tried the beef bourguignon.

She took a couple of mouthfuls and then asked me to try it. The main flavours I could detect were thyme and lemon - not what I would traditionally associate with a red wine and bacon sauce. She tried again and then could not eat it so sent it back. The waiter said that this was how it was supposed to taste, Hmm. I am not sure if they had added some extra wine to thin the sauce and then not cooked it out fully.

We decided to opt out of desserts and asked for the bill. When it came, Jeanne's dish was still on it even though she had returned it. When we pointed this out to them they removed it, but I would have preferred it not to have been there in the first place.

Certainly the menu here is more adventurous than many restaurants around town and I was looking forward to many nights there sampling it, but sadly because of this experience I wouldn't go back.

 

Corinne Sellens